FINDING THE BEAUTY IN ILLNESS
About us
The Radiate Collective are a group of Guernsey based creatives who joined together to produce art that explores the intersection of where Art meets Health through artistic methods such as photography, design, fashion, illustration and botanical art.
Mission Statement
We aim to devise and produce art projects that: Work directly with people and explore their lived experiences of illness. Investigate and challenge societal notions of illness. Share stories around themes such as (dis)ability and the condition. Diverge (in)visible stories that promote ownership and empower people
We are:
ELLIOTT MARIESS
JONI FREE
LOTTIE BARNES
LU PORRITT
MAISIE BISSON
TÜNDE NEMETH
TYLER AYRES
Background
Artists and Creatives are in the business of telling stories to the viewer. Stories are the way we understand and make sense of the world supporting human connection and have been used to hand down learning and knowledge for thousands of years. The Arts are a powerful tool from which we can explore and express individual and collective stories of living with an illness.
The Radiate Collective was established in 2021 when Arts & Health professional Lottie Barnes approached photographer Elliott Mariess with a journal full of imagery, thoughts and feelings, and a desire to produce some work about her real-time personal journey with breast cancer. The two founding members brought together a group of talented
creatives who would directly respond to the journal by turning it into a series of photographs and other ephemera.
The collective’s overarching purpose began with the understanding of the power of the Arts as a holistic tool for living with illness, but also as Art as an incubator to generate dialogue and understanding about living with a condition, firm in the belief that illness should not be hidden or promote shame. In our first project titled Finding the Beauty in Illness we present art, objects and fashion that respond to and document a lived experience from treatment to recovery of breast cancer. The intersection of where Art meets Health and Beauty versus Illness are the foundations of this project.
Curatorial Statement
Artists have always been at the forefront of promoting dialogue about illness. While simultaneously confronting personal and societal perceptions of illness, art can also challenge our personal notions of fragility and our acceptance of impermanence. Artists continually push the boundaries of visibility and representation of illness by questioning, expanding, bending and re-framing the way in which we think about it. Most notably: Vincent Van Gogh (1853-1890) who expressed his experience with depression and anxiety through his art, or Frida Kahlo (1907-1954) who explored her journey from polio through to chronic pain, also Derek Jarman (1942-1994) who documented an inevitable endgame with HIV/AIDS and more recently contemporary artist Tracey Emin (b. 1963) whose work delves into personal trauma and more recently cancer, all of whom dare to share intimate experiences of illness. It is important that artists continue to reshape common (mis) understandings of illness so that they can empower and inform the viewer, and in doing so demystify, de-stigmatize and ultimately reduce fear.
In Finding the Beauty in Illness The Radiate Collective have used breast cancer and chemotherapy as the source of their inspiration. They have documented and responded to the illness; its treatment and its effects via a series of carefully constructed photo sets to reflect one woman’s lived experience of the illness.
The collective’s initial research into images of breast cancer and chemotherapy often resulted in medicalised images of suffering and pain. Images which give a sense of hope during chemotherapy were extremely hard to find. Through further exploration it became clear that visible illness was mainly invisible in mainstream media – especially in the context of beauty, which evoked such questions as:
“How do we challenge common-ly held perceptions of illness?”, “How do we reduce shame from the (in)visible symptoms of illness?” and in doing so “How do we re-frame the lived experience of illness?”. “Is illness ugly?” and “Can illness be beautiful?”... which led to … “So why can’t a person receiving chemotherapy be on the front of a magazine?” In an effort to confront some of these questions the collective created a collection of wearable art and installations which act as the foundation to produce a series of portraits in a high-fashion photo shoot aesthetic.
Photographed in chronological order (2021-22) Finding the Beauty in Illness documents and interprets an 8-9 month journey of chemotherapy, mastectomy to convalescence and beyond. The exhibition is subcurated into seven themes (or pledges) individually titled: Acceptance, Grace, Nature, Compassion, Joy, Convalescence and Ownership. Each theme functions to represent important milestones and in doing so reflects coping strategies expressed as a personal manifesto to guide the subject along her journey through life and living. When combined the themes intend to grapple with the juxtaposition of beauty and illness. In acknowledging that 1 in 2 of us will get cancer, this raises one final reckoning, namely “How would we endure something as challenging as cancer?” The answer: we take its lessons to heart and we move forward.
It is intended that Finding the Beauty in Illness will provide hope, knowledge, and fresh representations of the breast cancer experience. This exhibition is intended for everyone, however, at its core sits a beautiful dedication to the breast cancer community and those living with an illness.
“We must let go of the life we planned, so as to accept the one that is waiting for us.”
How do you receive the words, “You have breast cancer”? From the moment of being diagnosed, for a second time, with breast cancer in June 2021, what lay ahead began with acceptance.
This second diagnosis meant going through treatment that would be tougher and for a longer period of time. This time there would be chemotherapy.
The Acceptance images represent the idea of going with the flow. There is movement and flow in both the person and the dress*. The body is open and accepting. The photos do not hide or disguise the visible symptoms of treatment demonstrating coming to terms with the fact this is the way you are now presented to the world, as a person who is visibly ill.
The Jean Varon label was founded in 1959 by Northumberland born designer John Bates. Self-taught, his early garments were futuristic in design with cut outs, clear panels and short hemlines. He was sometimes credited as having ‘invented’ the mini-skirt. Winning ‘Dress of the Year’ in 1965 earned the designer a commission to create Emma Peel’s wardrobe for The Avengers between 1965-66. The label moved to a more feminine and elegant look in the late 60s and 70s, renowned for its empire-line, floaty evening wear which is now highly collectible. The label came under new leadership by designer Tom Bowker in the early 80s. John continued to design for the label for a time before leaving the mainstream fashion business. He is now an artist and lives in Wales. The red Jean Varon dress worn for the ‘Acceptance’ shoot is a rare piece dating from between the late 60s to mid 70s. Dress kindly loaned by vintage fashion collector, Grace Ruddy.
“To live in grace is surely to experience our burdens being lifted from us from time to time; that our passage becomes smoother and more enjoyable, even when conditions seem hard to bear.”
Grace explores the juxtaposition of illness and beauty. The images were produced days after receiving the 6th and final chemo. Grace was chosen as a theme as it links directly to the concept of beauty, for example “to move with grace” alongside the idea of mindfully accepting a situation we find ourselves in – particularly one we didn’t choose. When going through months of life changing treatment it is a natural and normal reaction to feel resentment and anger towards the situation. In an attempt to navigate away from negative feelings, the focus became more about living in grace. Mainstream imagery of chemotherapy is commonly medicalised and
focussed on suffering, and the person is often denied make-up and elegance. We challenge that - Illness has the right to both visibility and beauty. The intention is that at first glance these images depict a woman in an editorial style fashion shoot. However, on closer inspection the visible signs and symptoms of illness are revealed demonstrating how illness can be integrated into mainstream imagery. The illness is intentionally unhidden, for example the PICC (Peripherally Inserted Central Catheter) line can be seen and acts as pseudo jewellery or adornment. It sits elegantly within the entire outfit*. The symptoms are complemented and made beautiful using botanical art.
*The dress is a Cream Fortuny plissé-chiffon gown from Halston Heritage. Roy Halston Frowick (1932-1990) who rose to international fame in the 1970s became well known for his body-conscious and ultra-flattering clothing. Halston Heritage is the current brand name with designs created for mass market retailers including NET-A-PORTER. The ‘flattering 'Fortuny' gown is cut from diaphanous chiffon and pleated to draw attention to the plunging neckline with waist-defining sash.
“Nature alone cures... What nursing has to do... Is to put the patient in the best condition for nature to act upon him”
Before commencing chemotherapy, it felt pertinent to research and gain knowledge about the treatment. This led to the discovery of the role of nature in the production of chemotherapy.
* Extracts of Pacific Yew Tree were discovered to be toxic to living cells; it literally stopped cancer cells from dividing. This discovery directly impacted the creation of Docetaxel, a common treatment for certain types of breast cancer.
Knowing the role nature had played in chemotherapy made the treatment a little less frightening, it was strangely comforting.
The botanical sculpture is made up of plants with known healing qualities such as eucalyptus and camomile, reinforcing the message that nature can heal and cure.
A sprig of Yew Tree is exchanged with Nature personified communicating acceptance of chemotherapy treatment in its natural form.
Nature is honoured through acknowledging the interrelated/life dependent relationship between humans and nature.
*Extract from Nature and Breast Cancer: The Plants That Saved A Botanist's Life by Katie Pavid and Dr Sandy Knapp (2020)
“Our human compassion binds us to one another – not in pity or patronisingly, but as human beings who have learnt how to turn our common suffering into hope for the future.”
Compassion is the act of giving to oneself or to others and can be an aid to navigate through illness.
This photoset explores the dual roles of compassion and self-compassion - from diagnosis, to recovery and beyond.
The images contain ephemera and objects associated with compassion such as flowers and fruit as popular gifts given to those who are ill. Medications scattered alongside anti-nausea sweets (known as Queasy Drops)
are placed as a reminder that illness is daily and constant regardless whether it is visible (or not).
The heart-shaped post-mastectomy surgery pillow, provided for free by charities to aid recovery from surgery, celebrate an act of female solidarity and compassion to others.
The act of self-compassion is explored through the decision making in wearing a wig. Do you want your illness to be visible or invisible today?
“If you carry joy in your heart, you can heal any moment.”
Studies have found that joy can make our hearts healthier, our immune systems stronger, and our lives longer. Seeking a daily moment of joy became an essential coping strategy promoting a sense of gratitude and lightness which counterbalanced the negative, dark, and difficult days.
The visible signs of illness are diminishing, hair is regrowing, but we are still reminded of the presence of illness through the dressing over the mastectomy site.
Joy can be found in many places, nature, dancing and dressing up. Sometimes it is a simple fleeting moment like the blowing of feathers.
Working with the word ‘joy’ helps to challenge some of the common language around cancer, prompting a question about whether ‘joy’ and ‘cancer’ can harmoniously coexist(?).
“Convalescence is a sort of grown-up rebirth, enabling us to see life with a fresh eye”
Some might say that the end of treatment is just the beginning. Convalescence provides the opportunity to reset and heal not just physically, but emotionally too. It is a time to just be.
The dream-like installation consisting of pillows, quilts and a flowing gown*
show harmony and comfort that can be found through convalescence.
Originally not intended to be part of Finding the Beauty in Illness, this theme was identified through the realisation that this important stage in treatment and recovery is often overlooked or not talked about.
*The dress is a sherbert strapless full-length tulle gown by Ruth Tarvydas (2011/12). Australian designer Ruth Tarvydas opened her first boutique in 1968 in Perth. The designer gained national and international recognition throughout her 46-year career. By the 2000s, her designs were selling in Selfridges (London) and Saks Fifth Avenue (New York). During this time, Ruth designed for many well-known celebrities including Rhianna, Delta Goodram, Kim Kardashian and Emma Watson.
“i was never prepared for how it would feel to be visibly ill and where this experience would take me. This project was my therapy”
“There is no greater agony than bearing an untold story inside of you”
Finding the Beauty in Illness began with a journal. The journal was a safe space to express a whole range of emotions and experiences that needed to go somewhere.
Extracts of the journal have been made into artworks and used to make the dress and the backdrop showing the
juxtaposition of owning one’s own story in contradiction to how others may interpret, or create a story for you based on the signs of visible illness.
The visibility of illness has now almost diminished apart from the black kinesiology tape, used to stabilise an injured area, highlighting ongoing complications that can be experienced post-cancer treatment.
Windflower Gown is a wearable textile piece designed with the concept of Ownership in mind. It draws heavily on the aesthetics of the late 1910s and early 1920s particularly referencing the design of Paul Poiret's Mantle. This era is significant in the development and mass consumption of fashion magazines and therefore was important to reference in this project that was based around editorial style photoshoots and the exploration of illness and beauty in the public eye.
The adjustable neckline and rectangular shape allow for as much or little modesty as the model required to feel comfortable on the day of the photoshoot and also is reminiscent of loose fitting "one-size-fits-all" hospital gowns.
This dress was hand dyed using the petals and filaments of Anemone Poppies (commonly known as Windflowers). This natural dyeing method was used to carry on the floral and natural imagery used in the rest of the project. Due to this the pattern and colours on the fabric are entirely unique and irreplaceable.
The dress is embellished with sentences draping over the shoulders, hand sewn by embroiderer Caro Drake. These sentences are copied directly from Lottie Barnes's own handwriting and while subtle, are poignant and add a layer of personal and emotional depth to the piece.
Support and advice
If you are affected by any of the themes or issues raised in Finding the Beauty in Illness you can find support listed below:
Guernsey
The Guernsey Society for Cancer Relief
// Telephone 238859 or 07781 427818
Guernsey Cancer Support
// guernseycancersupport.org.gg
// Telephone 07839 206857
Pink Ladies
Health Connections
National
Breast Cancer Now
// Helpline 0808 800600
Macmillan Cancer Support
// Helpline 0808 8000000
Shine Cancer Support (adults aged 20-49)
// Telephone 07804 479413
Finding the Beauty in Illness would not have been possible without the kind and generous support of -:
Guernsey Arts Commission
Dowding Signs Guernsey
Nu-Line
Yasmin Atkinson (studio)
Stiofan O’Ceallaigh
Leslie Banks
Estate of Christopher J.N Towner
Dave Dowding
The Radiate Collective would also like to extend a special thank you to:
Angela Edwards // Bailiwick Estates // Caro Drake // Chloe Ferguson (Guernsey Bubbles) // Clermont Interiors // Grace Ruddy // Guernsey Cancer Alliance // Jessica Morris // Jim Delbridge // Jo Delbridge // Karen Clawe // Markis Allen // Staff at the Bulstrode Unit at the Princess Elizabeth Hospital // Tiffney Mathews // Vanessa Mee // La Grande Mare Hotel // Justyna Serwach // Marcel Lenormand // Karen Leach // Mike Read // Guernsey Cancer Alliance
-
Page 08 - Acceptance -: quote from A Joseph Campbell Companion: Reflections on the Art of Living (1991), by Joseph Campbell | Edited by Robert Walter; Conceived by Diane K. Osbon Page 12 - Grace -: quote from Can An Ordinary Person Enjoy A State Of Grace? by Ann Naylor (2010) Page 16 - Nature -: quotes from Suggestions for Thought by Florence Nightingale: Selec-tions and Commentaries, p.17, Florence Nightingale, Michael D. Calabria, Janet A. Macrae (1994). University of Pennsylvania Press (1994), and Nature and Breast Cancer: The Plants That Saved A Botanist's Life by Katie Pavid and Dr Sandy Knapp (2020) Page 20 - Compassion -: quote from Notes to the Future: Words of Wisdom, p.84, Simon and Schuster (2012) Page 24 - Joy -: quote from The Epic Life of Carlos Santana, Rolling Stone (March, 2000) Page 28 - Convalescence -: quote from Twenty Minutes of Reality: An Experience, with Some Illuminating Letters Concerning it (1917) Page 32 - Ownership -: quote from I know Why The Caged Bird Sings by Maya Angelou. New York : Random House, (1969)
Biographies
-
Elliott Mariess
Elliott graduated from Kingston in 2009 and works full time as a professional graphic designer, photographer, and cinematographer with a particular focus on fashion and music, regularly collaborating with local brands, artists, models, and musicians. His work won a D&AD New Blood award and has been published in Art & Agenda by Die Gestalten Verlag (2011) and featured on multiple sites such as Designboom, Street Anatomy, Green Diary, Trend Hunter, Skeptical Designers, Toxel, etc.
Elliott founded a local website/podcast/YouTube channel Guernsey Gigs in 2008 a site focused on documenting and promoting the Guernsey music scene and developing the musical community. He writes and performs in several bands such as Brunt, Grace & Elliott, and Dead Wing, and has also recorded and produced and designed albums for local bands such as Twelve Ton Trouble, Lord Vapour, Tantale, The Cor Damme Lars, A Band Of Squirrels and Grace and Elliott.
-
Joni Free
Joni's love of all things vintage was ignited at an early age. A family vintage clothing emporium set up by her Uncle in the 80s was the first influence. Joni launched Belle Amour vintage pop up events, with garments sourced worldwide before moving on to co-own a beautiful boutique with her sister in Guernsey between 2005 and 2017 selling women's clothing, shoes and accessories. During this time she regularly worked with local magazines and photographers, styling for brand look books, advertorials and fashion shows. Joni currently works in marketing at a Big 4 accountancy firm and has over 12 years experience
in event management. In her free time she loves styling photography projects and music stage sets, always applying a touch of her retro fashion and musical influences to create the finished look. A strong interest in interior styling, particularly Art Deco and Retro, Joni recently started an interior design course to feed her passion and perhaps one day take it beyond just a hobby.
-
Lottie Barnes
Lottie is an Arts and Health professional who graduated with a degree in Editorial Photography and a Masters in Media Arts. Lottie has always been passionate about the role of the arts in supporting social change. The relationship between photographer and the subject is a common theme in her work questioning and exploring how to empower the subject giving them ownership of their own story. Whilst working as a freelance Community Artist in Greater Manchester for 10 years she developed the photography project Living Positive working with individuals living with or affected by HIV resulting in a city-wide exhibition in Manchester. The project also garnered the support of Annie Lennox who contributed a photograph for the exhibition.
In 2012 Lottie took on the role of Community Arts Development Manager in Guernsey and is now the Culture, Arts and Health Manager at Health and Social Care.
In 2020 Lottie was awarded a Churchill Fellowship to research the role of arts, culture and nature within health environments in Norway and the U.S.A.
-
Lu Porritt
Lu is a full time tattooist at Sacred Hand Tattoo, specialising in hand poked/machine
free tattoos since 2019. From a young age she was always interested in anything creative, spending most of her time colouring and drawing. At around the age of 13 she began working mostly with pencil, drawing portraits and traditional/old school tattoo designs. Lu also took an interest in makeup, hair and fashion. Finding inspiration from magazines (such as i-D, Dazed & Confused and Vogue), alternative fashion bloggers and high fashion runways. Lu doesn't have a particular style that she identifies with. She thinks of herself as a self-professed "chameleon". Her hair colour changes at least every two weeks and she has a penchant for Vivienne Westwood shoes.
-
Masie Bisson
Maisie is a full time seamstress with a passion for sustainable textile use and historical fashion. Throughout her Art and Design A-Level Maisie incorporated her love for textile art in a project around the effect of clothing on first impressions and the concept of You Are What You Wear. During these years Maisie was also the bassist in <track not found> a band with a very strong brand aesthetic where she was heavily involved in developing album covers, web pages and advertising for. Since starting the bespoke and upcycled fashion business Counterstitch in the summer of 2020 Maisie has organised 2 successful fashion swaps as well as completing many alterations and bespoke pieces.
This project has been featured multiple times in Guernsey's local paper, The Guernsey Press. More recently she has started working at Clermont West Interiors as a seamstress and interior designer. Maisie also spends a lot of her time in Guernsey's costume archive researching and caring for garments dating back to the mid 18th century. She is driven to explore the narrative potentials of clothing and how textiles can change and enhance a space or experience
while referencing the historical and social milestones of fashion.
-
Tyler Ayres
Tyler is an illustrator and visual artist. She studied art and design at the College of Further of Education and then went abroad to study animation, film and illustration. Upon returning to the island, Tyler launched her own business called Ghosthaus, where she sold clothing that featured her illustrations.
She later got involved in the local arts and music community, collaborating on creative photography and film projects and producing album artwork. She is currently the artist in residence at the Elizabeth College where she is creating artwork for her first solo exhibition. She is also helping to coordinate a zine club for the students at the college. Tyler has always been a film enthusiast and her ideas are influenced by directors like John Waters and Harmony Korine, bringing playfulness and surrealism into her work. Her passion for film and visual arts helps her to emphasise the personality of her subjects and develop interesting and engaging concepts.
-
Tünde Nemeth
Tunde is a Hungarian born creative living and working in Guernsey. She has a background in Visual Arts and studied Fine Arts, Philosophy and Film at Eotvos Lorand University in Budapest. She now owns and runs a small independent flower studio called Tiger Lily, as well as growing some of her own flowers. With her background in photography and film she has a different approach to nature and is well known for her flamboyant style in large scale arrangements as well as for her unusual colour combinations. Her creations always have plenty of movement, painting-like compositions and they focus on achieving a bridge between nature and the spectator.
Contact us
collectiveradiate@gmail.com